Sunday, January 22, 2012

Mekong Delta

meDSCN1290 by Heather April
DSCN1290, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

On our last full day of the trip to Vietnam, we rode to the Mekong Delta in S. Vietnam. It is a huge river system with tributaries that flow into the sea. The weather was beautiful and warm. Our first boat ride took us to an island where coconuts are grown and made into candy. The islanders also keep bees and make honey.

We toured the island, ate fresh fruit, drank hot tea, and some of us even held pythons. Before we left the island, we took canoe rides through a small canal, out into the river where our larger boat was. It was such a relaxing day!

If you are ever in South Vietnam, make sure you visit the Mekong Delta area- a once in a lifetime experience!

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

A destination worth the journey

DSCN1054 by Heather April

DSCN1054, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

Day 13

Today we traveled by bus to the Caodai Temple, built in 1926 in the village of Long Hoa, Tay Ninh. The temple is such a beautiful place. The cao dai religion was founded in an attempt to combine all of the religious philosophies in Vietnam, Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Hinduism, Spiritisim, Christianity and Islam. The main goal of the discipline is to prevent reincarnation, which can be achieved by the performance of certain human duties: killing, lying, luxurious living, sensuality and stealing are also not allowed. While at this stop, I ran across the street and purchased fresh fruit from a vendor who didn't speak English. I was so proud of my street sense and I thanked them in their language. :)

Our next stop was the Cu Chi tunnel network, which was the revolutionary base of the Saigon Cu Chi people otherwise known as the Viet Cong (guerrilla fighters) during the Tet Offensive. They lived in a dense jungle area near the Saigon River and at the outskirts of the main city. They hand built seventy five miles of narrow and deep tunnels in a complex network that really confounded the US soldier. The tunnels expanded further out too, throughout most of the country but the purpose of these specific tunnels were to protect Saigon. The Viet Cong were masters of traps and hiding their daily activities by using trenches, tunnels and outhouses dug deep in the earth, and covered with natural cover. I was able to get inside of a tunnel and crawl around a bit. It was intense. The guide told us the tunnel had been widened for foreign visitors but it was still really narrow, short, and hot. There were a couple of tunnel entries the original size, which you can see in the pictures. There were craters in the ground made by B52 bombers and there was an old US tank on display, taken out by the Viet Cong. It is winter time in Vietnam now but the jungle weather was 90-95 with 80% humidity. Ugh!


Monday, January 16, 2012

Vietnam War

DSCN0994 by Heather April
DSCN0994, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

This post is a serious one, a reflection on war. As an American and a student who was born at the end of the Vietnam War (known as the American War in Vietnam) I did not experience the war or it's after effects first hand. Everything I knew about the war before this trip had come from other sources..such as books and television and of course it all came from American sources. I was fairly uninformed. My impressions of the war were that it was a war against the spread of communism in a country that was filled with very skilled ground fighters in a jungle environment. I knew that the war was unpopular (even in America) towards its end, as journalist were allowed in to document it. I knew that it was a war that contained many atrocities and soldiers dealt with harsh daily conditions, both of which led to PTSD and other long term mental and emotional issues for soldiers. Before I arrived in Vietnam, I knew a little about Agent Orange and other chemical warfare agents such as napalm. I was aware that my country used them. Like many Americans, I had seen the cover of the 1972 Time Magazine that showed a very distressing photo of a group of Vietnamese children fleeing after a napalm bomb was dropped on them. As a non violent person at heart I knew that I probably would have been a protester during the Vietnam war era. I don't agree with chemical warfare, or torture, or a great many tactics used during war. However, I was also a bit apathetic about the whole affair in a typical American fashion.

Now that I have spent two weeks in this country that was on the other side of that conflict, I am definitely no longer apathetic. I have learned so much more about the war, how it fits into Vietnam's history, and I have learned more about my own country. Learning about your own country from outside of it and from another culture's viewpoint is very eye opening and can be hard to take in. As someone who truly cares about other people, of course my heart goes out to the generations of people in this country who are still suffering from chemical warfare effects thirty years later. As someone who respects religion and spiritual beliefs, it also broke my heart to see all the ruined temples, pagodas and cities in this country.

From Vietnam Vets working in Vietnam, and from tour guides I have learned that the US military dropped more ordinances on this small country during the Vietnam war than all of World War II. I also learned that the US Government has only recently acknowledged that its use of agent orange could have caused the ongoing birth defects (I visited children like this) here in Vietnam and started providing some support for its people. I learned that the US military considered no innocents during the war, and as such, attacks on women and children were normal occurrences, often leading to entire families to be exterminated. There are pictures in my flickr account documenting this. In my tours, I saw that Vietnam had war support from the rest of the world. This really surprised me. Of course some of the support was from other communist countries, but not all of it was. I learned that the war lasted 20-30 years depending on which country you ask. The Vietnamese basically feel that Americans fooled South Vietnam into an alliance and that the US replaced the French colonizers. When the US left Vietnam, the country reunified.

My experiences here have affected my opinions of the war, communism, and socialism. After my visits to the colonial prison where the French colonist held and tortured Vietnamese, I also visited Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum and the complex where he lived. The Vietnamese were very mistreated by colonial rule and HCM was a leader that came to power by promising equality of life for all Vietnamese. He lived very modestly, even when palaces were built in his honor. He did a great number of things to advance the poor of Vietnam and to instill good ethics and morality in them as a collective culture. HCM is highly respected in this country from North to South. He doesn't really seem like a bad guy to me-kind of a robin hood figure. He did his best to get the people away from colonization and it just so happened that he found support from Russia and the communists to do so. I have been to lectures that discussed communism and socialism in Vietnam and although it isn't highly regarded by many in the US, it works here in Vietnam, a small (and historically poor) country with a large population. As of late, they know their faults and successes and are working on development quite successfully.

My trip has taught me that good things are happening in more recent years. Since 1995, the US and Vietnam have signed treaties and have improved relations. Vietnam also built trade relations with many other countries after the post-wartime embargo ended here. American Vietnam Vets are working here to defuse and dispose of unexploded ordinances. There are volunteer groups that work with Agent Orange patients. There are groups like our host, the Vietnam USA friendship society, that work on building relationships and sharing knowledge with other cultures. People of this country don't seem to hold ill will against Americans. I am sure part of this is because we bring a lot of currency into their country through tourism. Many Vietnamese encourage me to visit their museums, etc. I get the feeling it is so I can understand the war from a different viewpoint. It makes them very happy to see American students here.

I didn't mean to write a book but I had to put this down somewhere. I can't stress how important and life changing it is to travel outside of your own borders and learn first hand about the rest of the world we live in. I hope my journals have been interesting. I know that I have been writing them in a hurry each night as I travel the country so they are not always exciting. Since this is a study trip, I learn more than I relax although I sneak some of that in now and then too. :)

Just a few more sleeps until I am back in America. I miss you all and can't wait to see everyone!

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Saigon

DSCN0872 by Heather April
DSCN0872, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

I had a long travel day today to get from Hoi Ann to Saigon. Our flight was delayed one hour and that left us in the airport an extra hour. Saigon seems overwhelming to me and I only just got here. I am really not a cosmopolitan city kind of girl. While I love culture and being near things to do, I also like a slower pace. To me, Saigon is like New York City..a place I don't really even care to visit. Okay, perhaps one day I will see a Broadway play. I am just not big on urban sprawl.

As the kids say, its "balls hot" and "cray" here haha Kids! What they mean is the streets are wild and its crazy hot. 90 daytime and 80 night time with that high humidity dirty urban dew in the air. Is it Friday yet? I might actually want to go home after spending a week in this city. Our hotel is old and not the nicest we have stayed in. No washcloths or Kleenex were provided and the bathroom has no vent. There is no pool here either which is quite depressing since we are staying the longest at this hotel, a full five days.

Oh well, tomorrow we have some cultural sight seeing as well as some free time. Bye for now!

P.S. I haven't blogged this in detail but prostitution is rampant in this country, from massage parlors to the street corners. Scary.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Hoi Ann

DSCN0786 by Heather April
DSCN0786, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

Yep, I finally came across one. I didn't use it though.

Hoi Ann

We traveled over the mountains from Hue to Hoi Ann in a bus. It was a terrifying ride because I am fairly afraid of heights and do not really like mountain driving. On the way, we stopped at marble mountain and looked at many huge marble statues. The hotel in Hoi Ann is damp and there is a huge carpet stain outside of our room. The sheets are moist. I wrote that up on our room evaluation. Otherwise, it was a decent hotel. The food was great. I made a video blog about this city-check it out.

Hoi Ann has been my favorite city thus far. I love the quiet pace of it and the people are super nice. The weather is tropical, in the low 80's with a very high humidity. On Day 10 we traveled to some ruins and hiked them. That was really fascinating. The Champ people lived there and they are a minority ethnic group here in Vietnam. There are only about 100,000 of them. This is the same ethnic group that the
Khmer Rouge in Cambodia was wiping out decades ago. The Champ people have more Indian than Asian features and they mostly practice Hindu, not Buddhism. The ruins were dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and the temples took serious damage over the years, some from the Vietnam War. One of the displays had American bomb shells in it next to the historic tablets.

We have had a lot of time on our own in this city. I have been relaxing and shopping. I wanted to rent a bike and ride it but they don't let us go anywhere alone in this country and no one else wanted to. I am struggling with constantly being around other people. I like my privacy and alone time and at my age, I am used to being able to do what I want to do. Overall, though I have met some cool people some of the kids and I have connected on facebook so we can share pictures and video later. We even made an asian friend at the Hanoi University and he is also on our facebooks. haha More later, ttys!

Friday, January 13, 2012

Marble Mountain

DSCN0762 by Heather April
DSCN0762, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

Day 12 Hue

Today was a chilly and rainy day, the rain was pretty exhausting as we toured Hue. Throughout the day, we went to the Imperial Citadel and Purple City, a pagoda, and an Emperors Tomb. We played dress up and got our pictures taken. We also climbed many steps. The purple city area contains ceremonial burial shrines for all the prior Nguyen Emperors. There was a special ceremony taking place the day we toured because it was the anniversary of the death of the first emperor of that dynasty. His royal relatives were there in full dress to pay their respects. The rest of the day was a bit of a blur because of the amount of walking and climbing steps we did in the rain.

In the evening, we took a boat ride an heard a folkloric performance by a group of Vietnamese artists. They were very good singers, musicians, and dancers. I loved the ao dai (silk outfit) that the women wear here. I really want one but I do not think I have the time or money to get one cut for me. I am going to look for them later.

I need to talk about food in Vietnam again. There is an unbelievable amount of fresh food here, especially fruits and seafood. Almost every meal has pineapple, watermelon, and papaya and this fascinating spiky fruit named rambutan. Also, all the juices at breakfast are fresh squeezed and there are always three choices. Rice is prevalent at meals, and all varieties from steamed to fried with different types of spices. I have never seen so much seafood in one place, even in Maryland. I have ate dragon fish, orange fish, red croaker and all sorts of octopus, squid, clams, crabs, etc. The fish here tastes really different than at home, however it is good just the same. Each meal comes with fresh salt, white pepper, a lime slice, and assorted types of dipping sauces.

Pho has became a favorite of mine. It is a noodle soup that you add all sorts of spices and things to. The yogurt here is great, it tastes totally different than at home-thicker and less sweetened. Oranges here are less citric than at home and have a green outside color. Yesterday at lunch, we had a wedding fruitcake tray brought to us. It was an amazing assortment of nutty fruit meat packed in tropical leaf boxes that were so pretty. I am surprised at how much I am enjoying the food here. I think my favorite part is the quality and freshness of it all. It has made me realize how much packaged and processed junk I was eating at home. I only drink water, hot tea and fresh juice here. I have had two or three cans of soda in almost two weeks, and one liquor cocktail. No beers, milk, fruity drinks, milkshakes, etc. Bravo!

As I am enjoying my meals, I am highly entertained by the Americans in my group who are picky eaters. It is hysterical to listen to their arguments about what the ingredients in all the foods are and if they should eat the food or not. They ordered beef one night and hated it because it wasn't American, but Australian. They hated the pizza at our hotel because its not the same either. They also complain about anything that says BBQ flavored. I have had to remind them several times that they are in Asia. They do love the french fries and order several plates of them from every menu they see them on. Many of them are not eating much here because many foods contain several ingredients and are hard to pick apart. I have seen one girl and one boy eat two bites of an eight course meal which is pretty ridiculous, but whatever.

Well, we are on a bus to our next city (Hoi Ann) about five hours away. We are going way up in the mountains, through a pass to visit a place called marble mountain. We are only in Hoi Ann for two nights and then we move to our final destination, Ho Chi Min City or formerly Saigon. See you all back in the USA real soon!

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Hue, Vietnam

DSCN0621 by Heather April
DSCN0621, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

Last Day in Hanoi

Today was a great lecture day. We met with the Vice President of the Vietnam Peace and Development Foundation and he gave a fascinating talk on the history of Vietnam and its development stages from decades ago until now. Vietnam has been under 1000 years of conflict from colonial (Chinese, French, Japanese) to modern wars (American). They have also been under adverse climate change because of the amount of coastline the country has and its proximity to sea level. Climate change currently jeopardizes their export business which is an important part of their market system. In 2011 Vietnam was the #1 country exporting rice to the rest of the world.

Mr. Loi was raised during the Vietnam/American war and he gave us first hand accounts of what it was like living in rural Vietnam as American planes constantly bombed over head. He went to 13 different schools in 10 years due to the constant need to relocate because of bombing risks. The rural people would build underground schools every time they moved and his people lived in very rudimentary structures, using only small fuel lit lamps to see occasionally. I am continually amazed at current relations between our countries, since an agreement went in place between us in 1995. The resilience and tenacity of the Vietnamese is really amazing.

Mr. Loi explained the socialist practices in his country from then to now, and why they were put in place, as well as the successes and failures of them. Even in the midst of some negative statistics (23% inflation rate last year which is double from the year before), there are also positive ones: 10% poverty level in 2011 as compared to 75% in 1986, and life expectancy was 72 in 2011 vs. 62 in 1990. The GDP is still very low, around 1,400. The average service worker can expect to make less than 200$ USD in a month.

Our next visit was to the American embassy annex and we learned about the foreign affairs office and what work they do in Vietnam. All of this was interesting to me because of my interest in international affairs but I wont bore you with the details. We discussed environment, politics, economy and other aspects of how the embassy works with Vietnamese diplomats. Very cool!

After that we hopped a plan and flew south to Hue, in central Vietnam. I videoed a few minutes of the ride to Hue, however there is some background noise, etc. I tried to give you some information about what city life is like here for the Vietnamese. I am going to do a walking video one day too so you can see it better. It is a bit unbelievable that what they are living like now are the best living conditions that have been in place for many generations.

Till next time! Hope you are all doing well back in the USA.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

One of my new friends in Vietnam

DSCN0595 by Heather April
DSCN0595, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

The last two days are a blur but a few things really stand out. We had two lectures, one was really great. It was on traditional musical instruments and we learned about a few of them including the Dan Bau which I am quite fond of. We also had an ethnography lecture and I learned there are 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam, some dating back thousands of years.

Today we visited a place that really impacted most of the students. It is called the Vietnam Friendship Village and they are a place that cares for Vietnam veterans and disabled children that were affected by agent orange in the Vietnam war (which they call the American war, by the way). Currently 40 vets and 120 children get care and education here, and all services are free. The children are the third generation of agent orange affected population and they really have no idea how many generations out might be dealing with these effects. The village teaches the children a sense of identity, some life skills and other things. It is a really special place. Some children come there with no sense of self, and cant hear or see. Most are mentally disabled, some physically disabled. I made fast friends with several of various ages right away. :)

We also visited Hanoi University. It was very neat to visit a college in another country and be able to talk to teachers and students so we could compare/contrast our schools and programs. The Asian boys were so cute and interesting-very well rounded and intelligent.

Lastly, I have spent several days in Vietnam now and I have come to the conclusion I would never survive in Hanoi. The city is so overcrowded, polluted, and dirty. Traffic at rush hour is totally off the charts. I have been wearing a pollution mask when I walk in the city. They seem to have little rules here about public cleanliness and most people sweep trash right into the street, sewer or road. In the long run it piles up roadside and on every vacant plot or spot it can. Even the beach in Ha Long Bay was several miles of polluted trash. So sad.


Monday, January 9, 2012

Video Blog from Halong Bay 1-9-11

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Heather Video Blog 1-9-11 a video by Heather April on Flickr.

Today we transferred to Halong Bay which is a couple of hundred kilometers away but takes five hours by bus, in traffic. Halong Bay is a world heritage site and is very beautiful. Its a bay full of caverns and mountainous rocks of all sorts of shapes and sizes. Our hosts, the Vietnam USA friendship society, had booked a whole cruise boat for our groups of 13. We were out on it for six hours cruising the bay and having a five course lunch. They really treat us first class here. I am getting very spoiled. Hotel staff opens doors for us, cooks us brilliant meals every morning and are just all around welcoming. In all of the restaurants and on the boat staff does everything they can to meet your every needs. Totally different than in America where waitstaff and food workers are generally irritable, unhelpful and sometimes downright nasty.

During our boat cruise we went to a limestone cavern in one of the mountains and the boat landing and climb up to the cavern were very rugged. We also stopped at a fish farm platform on the way out. It was all so intriguing and different than at home. The people are all welcoming and curious about us. We got some great group shots on the platform.

We stayed overnight in a hotel there, and transferred back out to hanoi the next morning.

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Water Puppet Musicians


Water Puppet Musicians a video by Heather April on Flickr.

*The instrument in the front is called a Dan Bau, and it is from the zither family. It plays only one chord but what a beautiful sound. It is said that in Vietnam a long time ago only men played the Dan Bou and young girls were not allowed to listen to its music lest they fall in love with the musician. :)

Chao!

Today was my second whirlwind day in Vietnam. I have traveled and learned so much that I already feel more comfortable here. Highlights:

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Complex: He was a fascinating man and the people's respect and love for him is simply incredible. We had a soldier guided tour into his tomb, which is taken very very seriously and we were instructed on how to walk, talk, etc.

Temple of Literature: Vietnam's first university which educated only the sons of mandarins. Several blocks of courtyards, gates and walkways. When each student achieved his doctorate, they were given a large stone tortoise (longevity) tablet in the complex.

Lecture from an American Vietnam Vet working and living in Vietnam, for the past 15 years. He runs a project called
Renew which works to reduce Vietnamese injuries and deaths from landmines. Kind of hard to believe that more tonnage of bombs was dropped on Vietnam than all of WWII. Great guy, lots of world experiences.

Water Puppet Theatre: See pics and videos. There was beautiful music and talented puppeteers, this is a very ancient Vietnamese art.

Food: AMAZING! I had pho, finally. It was great. The fruit drinks here seem to be fresh squeezed and incredible. There are so many varieties! Also, the yogurt here is very good-different taste and texture than in the USA. We also had dinner at a great seafood restaurant, family style.

A translated quote I saw today that I liked: "First learn to be human, then learn something else."

Tomorrow we transfer to Ha Long Bay which is a world heritage site and supposedly very beautiful. We are staying overnight and taking an afternoon boat cruise with meals. I could use some quiet time. These 12-14 hour days are making me so tired but I can't complain too much. It has been a great experience so far. Tam Biet, till next time! :)

Friday, January 6, 2012

A day in Hanoi


Kids a video by Heather April on Flickr.

:) Day 1 in Hanoi. What a whirlwind day of activities! I loved the experiences but I am definitely road weary right now. Highlights of today included:

one of our students picking up a poisonous caterpillar- much to our guides dismay,


that same student giving a bear hug to the guide during a photo op - also much to her dismay (no really, check the pictures),


seeing soldiers with AK-47's marching in the street,


bartering with (and literally running from) very desperate street vendors,


navigating the chaos of a traffic system that was built for 250,000 people but is now used by 6 million people,


a visit to a very lovely pagoda where I learned a little more about the Buddhist beliefs. There was even a Bodhi tree-very cool,


dinner at the four seasons where I tried all sorts of new foods,


the curiosity and spirit of school age children here (see video),


a visit to the colonial prison where John McCain and other POW's were housed. :(

Lastly, the country is building up to their New Year holiday (called TET). The atmosphere is both celebratory and reverent. Offerings and alters are everywhere you look. It is very interesting to find out what beliefs Vietnamese have about this holiday. A great many symbols must be present in every home and shop. These symbols bring all sorts of things including: wealth, good health, peace, happiness, etc. Neat.

Whew! Notice, I didn't get locked up either. ;) Off to rest for tomorrow's big day. Love to my friends and family back in the USA.

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Hanoi

DSCN0241 by Heather April
DSCN0241, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

Via Flickr:


We have arrived for our first night in Hanoi. What an exhausting 24 hours of travel. There was so many checkpoints and transitions along the way. I did not sleep well.

We arrived in Hanoi at midnight their time and the culture fascinates me already. It was 55f, which is cold for this region. There seems to be a huge evening social scene here. We passed many pho eateries full of people eating and drinking at midnight. There are also a ton of stands selling food and people hanging out in the streets, burning fires for warmth. Traffic was insane, even at midnight. Although there are lines on the roads, no one pays attention to them and people drive, walk, or bike anywhere and any direction they damn please. Craziness!

Currently, I am off for a few hours of sleep before we get up and tour Hanoi in the a.m. with our delegation.

If you would like to see more pictures, find me on Flickr. I am still stoked about 16 days and 16 nights in Vietnam. :)

P.S. There is no USA facebook here. Email or blog me! Love you all. Heather

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Hanoi

403px-Hanoi_Montage by Heather April
403px-Hanoi_Montage, a photo by Heather April on Flickr.

So, trying out this photo thing from Flickr. I thought this trip needed an *air guitar* montage to get it started! Here is Hanoi, the capital city that we are flying into after 21 hours total travel time. It's the second largest city in Vietnam and located next to the Red River.

We are staying in a three star hotel right in the old quarter. It looks like an awesome place. Temperatures in Hanoi as of late average a balmy 65f. I can dig it.

I'm going to try my best not to imitate Karl of "An Idiot Abroad" or the show "Locked up Abroad". Hopefully, it will just be "Study" abroad for me...however, I haven't tasted any rice wine yet.